This week we were on a mission to locate a particular book.
That quest took us down to the Chiado district of Lisbon to the Bertrand Bookshop.
Opened in 1732 (almost 300 years ago), Livraria Bertrandis considered to be the oldest bookshop in the world still in operation.
This little bookstore has a rich history. A bookseller from France actually opened the shop. It was later purchased by the Bertrand brothers. Things went well for several years.
Unfortunately, the store was destroyed in the devastating 1755 earthquake. The family, however, showed great resilience and continued with the business in a different location.
When the buildings in the Baixa area were renewed 18 years later, the bookstore moved back to its original neighborhood (Baixa Chiado).
The building itself looks deceptively small from the outside. However, once you enter inside, an entirely different story emerges. The bookshop is a narrow series of vaulted rooms which stretches back quite far.
Each room is filled with wooden bookshelves stacked from floor to ceiling with all manner of books.
At the very end of the bookshop, you’ll end up at a café serving up pastriesand drinks.
And, as luck would have it, I was even able to sit with Fernando Pessoa, the famous 20th century Portuguese poet, writer, literary critic, translator, publisher, and philosopher.
(However, this day he really didn't have much to say.)
And...did we find that book we were actually looking to purchase...you might ask?
Our days in Portugal are numbered. We will soon be completing our mission and moving on.
One of the pleasures of Portugal has been the 'food experience' and, lest I forget, I want to share what I consider to be some of Portugal's culinary hits (ones I have actually tried)...
Pastel da Nata
A creamy egg custard filling in a flaky pastry shell. Powdered sugar and/or cinnamon is sprinkled over the top to taste.
Caldo Verde
Green in color and made with a particular dark green cabbage that is not widely available beyond Portugal's borders. A combination of potato puree, slices of chourico sausage and olive oil complete this delicious and hearty soup.
Bacalhau
Grilled, baked, canned, or fried - they say there are over 1,000 ways to prepare this codfish.
Sardinhas
Grilled sardines seasoned with two Portuguese kitchen staples - salt and olive oil. Locals eat the entire sardine including the head, often with fried potatoes and rice, leaving only the boney carcasses.
Bifanas
(The National Portuguese Sandwich)
Made of marinated pork served in crunchy white bread. The marinade is made with spices including paprika, garlic, and white wine.
Bifanas are often served with a bowl of soup and fries.
Chicken Piri-Piri
An amazingly tasty roasted chicken flavored with a small spicy chili pepper known as Piri-Piri (African devil), brought from Africa during the Age of Exploration in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Today it's served with chips or french fries and small lettuce, tomato, and onion salad.
Arroz de Pato
Duck rice. What more can be said? They then top it with fresh orange slices. The result is deeply flavorful and downright delicious.
Polvo à Lagareiro
A show stopper to be sure - the tentacled cephalopod atop a bed of roasted potatoes. Beyond the octopus and olive oil, other ingredients include onion, garlic, bay leaves, and salt.
Serra da Estrella Spreadable sheep cheese. The country's most lauded cheese.
Choco Frito
Fried cuttlefish
Close relative to the squid and the octopus, it has a very chewy texture.
Arroz Doce
Sweet rice pudding is among Portugal's most traditional deserts. Made of short-grain rice, milk, and lemon peel in addition to egg yolks and sugar. Here it always comes with cinnamon on top.
Mousse de Chocolate
The Portuguese recipes all tend to use very dark chocolate, so it's quite rich and decadent.
Tarte de Maça
An apple tart
Bolo Rei
King's Cake is a sweet bread made with eggs and filled with dried and candied fruits, nuts, and raisins, then formed into a donut shape and given a generous dusting of powdered sugar.
A favorite holiday tradition.
Pão
I consider myself to be a bread appreciator and love trying all the different Portuguese breads.
Our little bakery across the street makes the best bread!
My two favorites - pão de milho com sementes (made with corn flour) and pão natural com sementes (made with wheat flour) - both with the addition of seeds (those are the sementes)
Crusty, dense, soft and chewy. A perfect combination!
